May 2012 – Country Tradition

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From an urban environment to the country; such is the inspiration behind the new merchandise, which will be delivered to Rodd and Gunn stores in Australia and New Zealand for the month of May 2012. Country concept mixed with city living that brings a sense of comfort and familiarity. It’s a mix of textures, wools, cotton twill and corduroy, comfort knits and a practical jacket. This trend is not groundbreaking, but it is solid, believable and commercial. A trend infused with rich, country inspired colours ranging from neutral tones to colourful highlights.

Particular attention is directed to the comfort knits in Ruby, Forest and Chestnut Moulinè. With the simple V-neck styling, it’s the colour and the wool quality that will attract attention. The Ruby colour knit (EP602) is a simple fold-over V-neck style knitted in Extrafine Lambswool from Italy.  Another V-neck, slightly more relaxed in fit and feel is the Chestnut colour Moulinè (EP604). It’s knitted from Pure fine merino wool (from European mill) and with its rolled edge V-neck and loose cuffs, it will perhaps suit slightly younger mindset customers. A classic winter piece is the chunky Aran knit in Forest colour (EP603), knitted in Extrafine Lambswool from Italy. This is an absolute on trend, must have, piece for this winter.

The new slim fit soft tailored jacket (BP524), made from Italian wool blend (75% wool, 22% Nylon – for durability and texture and 3% elastane – for comfort), in a subtle dark grey/ black texture, is a staple to every mens’ wardrobe. The fit is slimmer, showing off a good shoulder line, trim body and just the right amount of fullness in the sleeve.

Textured, heavier weight Italian cotton pants (VP477) in a popular classic fit and corduroy jeans are good offering for this time of the year. The cord jeans (VJ330) made from Italian two-tone yarn dyed corduroy, with an interesting finish; washed and slightly worn looking, like they have been your favourites for some time. They are in the best-selling fit Barney, (slim fit) and they look particularly good worn with the warm handle twill shirt (LP1869) in richly coloured check design. And throw the forest colour Aran knit (EP603) over the top and you have the perfect mid-winter outfit, suited to the city weekend or a country outing.

Another perfect shirt for winter is the Oxford base check (LP1870) in Forest colour. This shirt comes already pre-washed, making it nice and soft to touch. If you are after something slightly dressier, the stripe poplin shirt (LP1868) is a good choice. With its white background and blue, grey and burgundy stripe, it is a nice update to a winter wardrobe. If it’s something slightly darker you are after, then there is another beautiful, classical design (LP1867) in Claret colour base with black and cream highlight  mini-check design. All pieces in this collection (with one exception, which uses European yarn) use Italian fabrics and yarns, which for years now has been a trademark for Rodd & Gunn.

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Welcome 2013

Welcome 2013.

First things first

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When winter knocks on the door, you want to be prepared. Whether you want to fight off early morning chill on your walk, keep warm in winter without pulling on bulky sweater or prepare for a mountain hike, you need to choose the right clothing.

We put to test the new range of technical first or base layer garments from RODD & GUNN. If you are a fan of RODD & GUNN clothing, you know that the brand is based on using quality natural fibres, and design real clothing for real men. Unlike some other brands that use purely man-made fibres for their first layer garments, Rodd & Gunn stick to their philosophy and use blend of superfine merino wool (76%), polyamide and polypropylene for their first layer garments. This unique blend of natural and man-made fibres was developed and spun in Austria.

The natural properties of Merino wool not only feel super soft, they regulate your body temperature as needed. The polyamide (nylon in basic language) is used to give the garments incredible amount of stretch and recovery needed for first layer garments. To adjust for the amount of stretch on your body and to create a comfortable feel, the garments are knitted longer than usual. The polypropylene looks after the moisture management. It wicks the moisture away from your body to the surface of the garment where it evaporates, hence keeping your body dry and warm.

As for the design of RODD & GUNNs’ first layer garments, it employs very technical and unique semi-seamless construction. This means that there are no seams on the body or sleeve parts, thus avoiding chafing or rubbing of seams and stitching. This is expensive process as each size is knitted on its own cylinder machine with a special diameter to achieve the desired measurements for each size.

The styling details on each garment are kept simple and basic, and shape panels are knitted into the garments to avoid the bulk of stitching in styling of traditional sewn-in panels. There is a choice of three styles – Crew neck, V-neck and a half-zip turtle neck. The half-zip style has separate double cuffs on sleeves that act as hand warmers; pull the sleeve down over your hands and slip your thumb through the thumb-hole opening to keep the hand warmer in place.

So these first layer garments form RODD & GUNN get a tick of approval from all aspects, and until you wear one, you can not fully appreciate the amount of research and development that had created these unique garments, offering the hi-tech technology combined with natural philosophy of RODD & GUNN brand.

know your cotton

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When you’re shopping for a shirt, many of you think ‘shirt is a shirt, I just need to find a nice trendy one to go with my new jeans’. You find the right colour, the right fit and you’re happy. That is until you wash the shirt a few times and the fabric does what certain fabric does. Some shrink, some fade, some fray around the edges, and some stay beautiful for years and can even become nicer as they age and turn into your old favourites that you wish you bought one in every colour. So what’s in a fabric? Let’s look at cotton shirtings today, from seed to yarn to fabric.

It all starts with the area where the cotton is grown. Different growing areas produce different qualities of cotton, depending on the variety of seeds planted, the growing conditions and the harvesting methods. The best cotton is one that has the longest staple; very fine with a smooth, silky texture and a great lustre. This is called West Indian Sea Island Cotton, which was first planted around 1650 on Sea Island of Georgia and in South Carolina. Today, its limited quantity (only about 0.005% of the total world cotton production), is grown mainly on Barbados and a few other Caribbean Islands. To protect the qualities of this rare and precious cotton, it is still harvested by hand. Weaving fabric from this superfine cotton requires superfine machinery – spinning mills and weaving mills, found only in England, Switzerland and Italy. Fabric woven from this cotton is often compared to silk, it has the finest silkiest touch, incredible drape, and due to the cotton’s long-staple, is very durable, and very expensive. Shirts made from West Indian Sea Island Cotton are simply the best in the world and are often hand stitched by the best tailors. These custom tailored shirts demand a price tag of around $500.

A notch down the ladder in quality is Sea Island Cotton; also grown in the Caribbean, but harvested by conventional mechanical methods. Fabrics woven from the Sea Island Cotton are used by high-class tailors and the impeccably tailored shirts are worn by men of great passion for quality and style.

Superfine and Fine cotton fabrics use ply-yarn for their weaving. This can be 2-ply or 3-ply. (3-ply is 3 times better!) What it really means is that the finer the individual yarn is, the more yarns can be twisted (plied) together to form one final yarn that is then used for weaving. So to put some numbers to it – some of the best Sea Island cotton would be 3-ply 400′s.

Egyptian cotton is also known as a long-staple cotton. However, as there are many varieties of cotton grown in Egypt, this can sometimes be misleading, so if you are into your high quality cottons, read on. The chances are that if you buy your shirt from a quality brand, you will get quality Egyptian cotton, most likely Egyptian Giza cotton. (Grown in the Giza region of Egypt). If you buy a non-branded shirt that uses Egyptian cotton as their marketing vehicle to attract customers, it is most likely that they have used Egyptian cotton  of a lesser quality, with shorter staple. By the mere mortals of this world, Egyptian cotton is regarded as the best cotton, because it’s used by luxury and upmarket brands of the world. The staple is still long, it has a smooth texture, it’s soft and reasonably durable.

There are about 50 varieties of cotton, but only few have been domestically cultivated for fibre use. The major cultivators of cotton in the world are USA, China, India, Egypt, Pakistan and Eastern Europe. Cotton grown in these countries is mainly short and medium staple length. Cotton yarn spun from these fibres is usually single ply and is used to produce  fabrics of an average, basic quality, with a variety of uses. In clothing industry, short staple cotton yarns are used for just about all categories of clothing; most widely for T-shirt fabrics production, cheaper, single-ply shirting fabrics, pants and jeans fabrics, heavier workwear, manchester, etc…

If you would like me to expand on any of the above or on anything about cotton in clothing industry, please leave me a message and I will answer it.

April 2012 – Winter Whites

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April brings a new delivery of Winter Whites collection into Rodd and Gunn stores in Australia and New Zealand.
The inspiration for this collection is drawn from the rugged high mountains in South of New Zealand and the dramatic limestone outcrops of the New Zealand’s Southern Highlands. The colours are a harmony of monochrome shades, from black through to various tones of grey, to winter whites. They reflect the cold and rugged environment; the hard rocks, dark wintry sky, subtle textures of the limestone outcrops and the white waters of braided rivers with their grey pebbles scattered wide.

Whilst there are many essential and exciting items in this collection, here I will mention just a few of my favourites:

BP0492 Tablelands jacket in Pewter – this quilted parker with removable hood in subtle check wool fabric will protect you from even the harshest of winds and cold. It has double cuffs for extra cold protection and a soft inner collar for added comfort.

BP0530 Glengarry moleskin jacket in Onyx is an updated version of the all-time favourite. A timeless classic design with genuine lambskin leather collar, it is washed for that instant appeal of a slightly worn, lived-in look.

BP0498 Westown coat in Onyx – repeated due to high demand – what more is there to say? For you, who are new to the Rodd & Gunn family – this is a classic design ¾ length wool coat with fully removable, quilted body warmer.

EP0595 Sweeny knit in Ivory colour; a classic design button neck pullover, chunky look without the weight. This ‘cookies n’cream’ Donegal yarn is a nice update of the traditional outdoor look.

Barney fit jeans – one cannot be without! Introducing Barney in corduroy, in three perfect winter colours, Petrol, Stone and Pebble, all in a vintage wash, for added softness and lived-in look of your old favourites.

Superfine

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Superfine was the obvious name for a new collection of special shirts that I have designed for Rodd & Gunn recently. It’s all in the fabric! Exceptionally fine yarn count of 170/2-ply superfine Egyptian cotton is woven by a fine shirting mill in Europe into this butter feel like superfine poplin. This silky-smooth exquisite fabric will make you feel fresh and stylish through-out the busy day in the boardroom. The sophisticated soft colours of these shirts will make you looking confident and professional, and are best worn with dark navy or grey suit. I have also carefully matched and designed 100% silk ties (made in Italy), to go with each particular design shirt.

Or if you are a fashion follower, these shirts, with their tailored, slimmer fit, will make you look sharp and on trend, paired with nice dark clean-looking jeans, black shoes, black belt and a casual navy double-breasted merino wool cardigan, to finish the look. If you have a favourite grey cardigan, wear this with brown shoes and brown belt instead, for the up-to-date look.

Fundamental rule

“The most important thing when designing is not to get distracted by whatever fashion torrent brings along, but to focus on what matters”.

I can not recall who said this, but I certainly agree with it. This is one of the most fundamental rules that creativity should live by.

why?

With so many fashion and design blogs out there, the question is – why am I doing this? Well, the story is; I am a menswear designer for an international company, that has over 80 stores in Australia and New Zealand and a fledgling wholesale business in the USA. It is an iconic brand with long and strong heritage, brand that has been built on a reputation of quality and design. Brand that’s been true to it’s values and beliefs by using some of the best fabrics available, high quality standards of manufacturing and styling that is unmistakably representative of the brand.

As you can imagine, the communication with all of the company stores is paramount, and my intention was to get a communication channel to all of the company’s retail staff, so they get a better understanding of my designs. So in my mind, it was going to be a kind of an internal company communication tool. I wanted to talk to all of them about the fabrics I have chosen to use, about the designs, concepts, details etc. But then I found out that the retail stores don’t have a direct access to internet! There goes my idea… great intention, but it didn’t work!
Then, one dear and a long-time friend of mine asked me for help. Help with his personal styling. So from this sparked another idea and a reason to keep the blog going; I will share some secrets of styling for the men out there, who would like a bit of help with colours, patterns, fit, what goes and what doesn’t. I know, I know; there are many sites that do that, but this is my telling; from a designer who lives on the australian east coast (so I won’t be telling you how many designer suits you need to have in your wardrobe and which brogues go with which colour suit and the latest colour of the ‘must-have’ suede belt) get the picture? The work dress code here still accepts short sleeve shirt, shorts and knee-long socks, preferably in white. (Sorry AJ, I won’t be recommending this one to you…) But tropical business fashion of the 80′s aside, men here might want to read something more tailored to their tropical climate and relaxed lifestyle.
Of course, any comments and sharing of your views on fashion are more than welcome.
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